Center Stage of 500-year Joseon History
Changdeok Palace, or the “Palace of Illustrious Virtue,” is nestled in a compound of some 480,000 square meters that sprawls around the foot of Mt. Eungbong, sitting in front of Bohyeon Peak with Mt. Bukhan in the distant background. Its numerous halls and pavilions were laid out rather freely to harmonize with the natural contours of the surrounding hilly terrain. The site plan markedly differed from the traditional Chinese-oriented style of palatial construction, which, as exemplified by Gyeongbok Palace, typically had a symmetrical arrangement of major halls and gates along the north-south axis on flat ground. The mountain palace lacked a man-made axis regulating its spatial layout. Instead, it followed native Korean values emphasizing harmony with nature, resulting in an intriguingly flexible ground plan.
Changdeok Palace today looks far different from its original appearance as depicted in the “Picture of the Eastern Palace” (Donggwol do), drawn around 1830. A highly valuable cultural asset itself, the court-style documentary painting provides an accurate view of Changdeok and Changgyeong palaces in the eastern part of the old capital city. Both palaces have not only been reduced considerably in scale but distorted in shape, due to the ruthless destruction that occurred under Japanese rule during the early 20th century. Palace structures were removed or turned into entertainment venues; some were moved from one palace to another.
Blending in with the topography, Changdeok Palace follows the basic geomantic (pungsu) principle of an ideal home with a mountain at the back and water in the front. Still, the site plan faithfully reflects the three major rules of palatial construction. That is, government offices are placed in the outer court and the private residence of the royal family is in the inner quarters behind; the royal palace is behind nine gates, with the king’s quarters surrounded by many layers of buildings and courtyards for the sake of security; and the eastern section of the palace is reserved for the crown prince, a symbol of rising power, and the queen dowager and other senior ladies of the royal family.
The grounds of Changdeok Palace are largely divided into four areas: the entrance area, the office area, the royal residence, and a rear garden.
The entrance area has two major features - the main entranceway, Donhwamun, meaning the “gate of sincere edification,” on the southern edge of the palace compound and the front courtyard where the Geumcheon, the “forbidden stream,” flows through. Outside the palace grounds, the stream joins the Cheonggyecheon flowing through the old city, symbolizing the unity of the king and the people.
The stone bridge spanning the “forbidden stream” represents the first step into the royal sanctuary. It is also the gateway to the office area, which has the Office of Special Advisors (Hongmungwan), the Office of Royal Scribes (Yemungwan) and the Royal Infirmary (Naeuiwon), among other government offices. All of the court offices have been restored since 1991 after being removed during the colonial period. Lording over these court offices are the Hall of Benevolent Governance (Injeongjeon), the throne hall, where many important state events were conducted throughout the Joseon period, and the Hall of Administering Governance (Seonjeongjeon) which served as the king’s offices.
The royal residence comprises the bedchambers of the king and the queen as well as the palaces of the crown prince and queen dowager. The king and queen’s bedchambers, named Huijeongdang (Hall of Joyful Rule) and Daejojeon (Hall of Great Creation), occupy the innermost quarters of the palace. The crown prince’s residence, Junghuidang (Hall of Immense Joy), no longer exists; only a pavilion and part of a cloister remain. The queen dowager’s residence comprises Nakseonjae (House of Joy and Goodness), Seokbokheon (House of Frugal Happiness) and Sugangjae (House of Health and Longevity), all built during the reign of Heonjong in the early 19th century.
The rear garden, called huwon, or bugwon, meaning the “northern garden,” is the largest and most beautiful royal garden of the Joseon period. It was a favorite place for outdoor activities for the members of the Joseon royal family.
The rear garden, called huwon, or bugwon, meaning the “northern garden,” is the largest and most beautiful royal garden of the Joseon period. It was a favorite place for outdoor activities for the members of the Joseon royal family.
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Main Place
Donhwamun Gate
This is main entrance to the Changdeokgung palace. When it was first built, there was a white granite substructure, on the top of which a two-storied gate building was erected. This is a typical structure of the entrance to our palace that was transmitted from the Three Kingdoms period. Unfortunately, now, the substructure has disappeared; only the two-storied building remains. This is quite different from the structure of the Gwanghwamun, the main entrance to the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty, which was erected on the structure with three open arches on the ground.
As one may observe, the Donhwamun is elegant but simple because it was built as an entrance to a separate palace of the Changdeokgung palace.
The Donhwamun was set on fire by the Japanese invaders, but it was reconstructed as it had been by King Seonjo in 1607. It's the oldest entrance to remain in Seoul. Only the threshold of the entrance was reconstructed so that an automobile could pass through it easily. (Treasure No.383).
Injeongmun Gate
This is an open entrance to the existing wing which surrounds the Injeongjeon where the king and his officials gathered together to hold a conference. This gate is located in the center of the south of the Injeongjeon. Going up the lower terrace stones, you will find an entrance with only an open 'kan' in the center among 3 kan's. This is different from any other entrances in this respect because it was later changed in structure and decorations, etc.
The Injeongmun was first built in 1418 during King Taejong's reign, but subsequently it was destroyed and reconstructed; It was destroyed during the Japanese invasion, King Injo's Reform, and King Yeongjo's reign. The existing gate is assumed to have been built in 1745 when the Injeongjeon was reconstructed. (Treasure No. 813)
Injeongjeon Hall
Every palace has its own main hall, which was equipped with various decorations that symbolize the power and authority of the King. The Injeongjeon, as a main hall of the Changdeokgung palace, is stationed in the centre of the outer buildings of the palace. In fact, it is usual that the outer buildings should be located in the south of the inner buildings, and the most important buildings and pavilions arranged in accordance with the line of the main axis of the meridian.
The Changdeokgung differs from the Gyeongbokgung palace in this respect. All the buildings of the Changdeokgung are arranged according to its topography. This is the reason why the palace was built as a detached palace. This is also characteristic of the Changdeokgung palace. About 1912, when the wings of the Injeongjeon were reconstructed to be used for an exhibition hall, the gate called Injeongmun was also restored to function as an entrance of the hall, and each space between two posts was then rearranged, too. Built on the double bases called "Woldae", the Injeongjeon is a two-story building, the inside of which has no partition between both stories. It occupies 20 kan and has an eave with a complex bracket structure which represents the late style of the Joseon dynasty.
Seonjeongjeon Hall
Usually, the Pyeonjeon, where the king worked at his convenience, belonged to the outer buildings of the palace, but it neighboured the king's sleeping quarters. The Seonjeongjeon is the Pyeonjeon with 9 kan, which is a one-story building. One can feel a sense of comfortable and stability here. In particular, the high footstones for gutter, and the blue glazed roof tiles are the attractions here. The four-leaf doors with paper replaced by pane made the inside more bright.
In the center of the building, the king sat on his throne in from of the screen with the sun, the moon, and five mountains in, and then his subjects were permitted to take their seats on both sides. A scribe also sat in a corner, recording what they were discussing.
The decorative ceiling over the throne is symbolic of the king's authority. It looks like a canopy, and is truly representative of woodcraft and art of the Joseon Dynasty. (Treasure No. 814)
Huijeongdang Hall
Built to the south of the Daejojeon, the Huijeongdang was the place where the king worked ever day. The room in the centre of the building with no partitions, which is 3 kan in length and 3kan in width, was used as a drawing room, and the same size room in the west was used as a conference hall. On the upper part of the east wall of the drawing room, the "Landscape of the Chongseokjeong Pavilion" is hung, and on the upper part of the west wall, the "Ten Thousands Peaks of the Geumgangsan Mountain" is hung. King Gojong stayed here before the completion of the Gyeongbokgung and King Seonjong did, too. In those days, western civilization was introduced into Korea, which was under acculturation.
The Huijeongdang is a representative example of this; that is, the Huijeongdang building is, certainly Korean native architecture, but the interior is decorated with western materials in many respects. The Huijeongdang was burned down in 1917, and the existing building was reconstructed with the materials of the Gangnyeongjeon disassembled in the Gyeongbokgung (Treasure No. 815)
Daejojeon Hall
This is a queen's residence called "Daejojeon", which is located just behind the king's residence, called "Huijeongdang", which is in the center of the palace. Usually, every building of the palace has a ridge on its roof, but the Daejojeon has none. It's the reason why we can easily find what and where the Daejojeon is.
In the center of the Daejojeon, there is a small base called "Woldae", on which every man who visited a queen executed a greeting or sometimes waited for her to appear. At the right, left and front of the Woldae, each stone stairway was built, which lead to the foot way. At both edges of the base, there are massive bronze utensils, which were installed to ward off fire. It was derived from the belief that the god of fire was frightened away at seeing his shape reflected on the water in it.
It's here the King Seongjong, King Injo, King Hyeonjong, King Cheoljong, and King Sunjong,etc. died. (Treasure No. 816)
Seongjeonggak Hall
It's here that the royal doctors of the court took care of the King and his family. It was also called "Yakbang", which literally means a pharmacy. In the Seongjeonggak, the main building of the Naeuiwon complex, there are some tables of '保護聖躬' '彫和御樂' etc., Which mean "do one's best to take care of the king and his family". They were written by King Jeongjo himself.
Every court doctor had his own duty: some were in charge of surgery and some of obstetrics: there were also women doctors who treated only women of higher status.
They were always on duty day and night by turns. Here in the Naeuiwon, all kinds of herbs from all over the country were then preserved. However, the herbs, the court doctors and the implements that were used for compounding medicine have all disappeared. Only some stone mortars remain to tell the story of those days.
Nakseonjae
This Nakseonjae Hall was built by King Heonjong (1827-1849, r. 1834-1849) in 1847. The king’s thrifty character is well shown from the architectural style of this building without using dancheong or multi-color painting.
King Heonjong also built Seokbokheon House next to Nakseonjae and Sugangjae Halls the following year. Nakseonjae Hall was used as the king’s quarters and office while Seokbokheon House was built for his consort Gyeongbin Kim(1831-1907)’s quarters and Sugangjae Hall was for Queen Sunwon(1789-1857), the king’s grandmother. Seokbokheon House is a rare example of a house constructed for the king’s consort. Seokbokheon House had been used by Empress Sunjeonghyo(1894-1966) until 1966 and Nakseonjae Hall was the residence of Lady Yi Bang-ja (1901-1899) until 1989.
Nakseonjae Hall was designated as Treasure No. 1764 in 2012.
Secret Garden
The Changdeokgung Palace was loved more than any other palace by the kings of Jeseon Dynasty(1392-1910) because of the spacious and beautiful garden in the back. Preserving the original topography, garden areas were planted in each valley and a series of lotus ponds were built. Small pavilions were also built along the stream that flows through the rear garden. Through this, the natural quality of this Secret Garden has been enhanced.
Although Yeongyeongdang Hall was built in the royal palace, its architectural structure and noncoloring style are close to those of gentry level. These unadorned building add to the special atmosphere of the rear garden.
The Secret Garden was intended as a place of kings and royal family members to relax, but it was also a venue for various outdoor activities.
The early Joseon kings would join in military exercises here and archery contests were held, along with banquets for the queen dowager, prominent relatives of the king and high-ranking ministers. The king sometimes tried his own hand at planting and raising grains here, and queens would engage in sericulture. The Secret Garden takes up almost 60% of the entire area of the Changdeokgung Palace, and in the old days even tigers would occasionally appear. The beautiful sights are hidden in a series of valley, so the entire layout cannot be seen at once. One must walk down into each of these valley to the pond and its pavilions in order ro truly appreciate the beauty of the palace.
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